The Studio · Suits on Screen

Suits on screen.

Film has taught more men how to wear a suit than any tailor ever has, and some of it was even good advice. Here are the suits worth stealing from, a few that are best enjoyed as warnings, and the one everybody asks about now: the suit John Wick says is bulletproof.

A grey-blue glen check suit jacket on a wooden hanger beside a folded length of the same cloth, tailor's shears and a vintage leather valise
A fine glen check and a travelling bag. The best suit in film history spent most of its film on the run.
The best-dressed

Ten suits worth stealing from.

What they are, who made them, how to get the look
North by Northwest (1959)
North by Northwest: the grey suit that survived a crop duster

Often called the best suit in film history: a grey glen check from Kilgour, French & Stanbury that goes from Madison Avenue to a cornfield. What it is, why it works, and how to have one made.

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Goldfinger (1964)
Goldfinger: the glen check three-piece that made Bond's name

Sean Connery's grey glen check three-piece in Goldfinger (1964), made by Anthony Sinclair: the waistcoat with lapels, the trousers with no belt, and what it still teaches a man about a three-piece.

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The Thomas Crown Affair (1968)
The Thomas Crown Affair: one cut, a wardrobe of three-pieces

Steve McQueen's three-piece suits in The Thomas Crown Affair (1968), made by Douglas Hayward: the same cut in a run of different cloths. Why it is the smartest way to build a wardrobe.

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American Gigolo (1980)
American Gigolo: the film that took the stuffing out of the suit

Richard Gere's Armani wardrobe in American Gigolo (1980) removed the padding and the lining and changed menswear for a decade. What an unstructured jacket is, who it suits, and how to have one made.

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Casablanca (1942)
Casablanca: Rick's white dinner jacket, and when to wear one

Humphrey Bogart's ivory double-breasted dinner jacket in Casablanca (1942): the shawl lapels, the black trousers, and when a white dinner jacket is the right call for black tie today.

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Mad Men (2007–2015)
Mad Men: why Don Draper wore the same suit for ten years

Don Draper's grey and navy suits in Mad Men (2007 to 2015): the sharkskin, the narrow lapels, and why the costume designer kept them the same while the 1960s changed around him.

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The Great Gatsby (1974)
The Great Gatsby: how a pink suit won an Oscar

Robert Redford's pink and white suits in The Great Gatsby (1974), designed by Oscar winner Theoni V. Aldredge with clothes by Ralph Lauren. Why a pale suit is a statement, and how to wear one without looking like a costume.

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To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)
To Kill a Mockingbird: Atticus Finch and the dignity of a summer suit

Gregory Peck's three-piece summer suit as Atticus Finch (1962): seersucker in a Southern courtroom, a waistcoat in the heat, and why a modest suit can carry more authority than an expensive one.

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Peaky Blinders (2013–2022)
Peaky Blinders: Tommy Shelby's herringbone three-piece

Tommy Shelby's tweed three-piece suits in Peaky Blinders: the herringbone, the six-button waistcoat, the club collar buttoned to the neck. What it is, and how to wear the look without the flat cap.

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Suits (2011–2019)
Suits: Harvey Specter and the power of a peak lapel

Harvey Specter's Tom Ford suits in Suits (2011 to 2019): the wide peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket, why the costume team redrew it, and whether a peak lapel is right for you.

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The hall of shame

Five that teach by bad example.

Laugh first, then check your own jacket
Hall of shame · Tommy Boy (1995)
Fat guy in a little coat: what Tommy Boy teaches about wearing someone else's jacket

The most famous jacket failure in film, read by a tailor: why a jacket that is too small splits down the back, the five signs yours is too tight, and why borrowing a groomsman's jacket is a gamble.

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Hall of shame · Dumb and Dumber (1994)
The orange tuxedo: Dumb and Dumber and the worst formalwear on film

Lloyd's orange tuxedo and Harry's powder blue, with ruffles, top hats and canes: a tailor takes apart the most famous formalwear disaster in film, and explains where colour at black tie actually works.

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Hall of shame · The Big Lebowski (1998)
The Dude abides. His wardrobe does not.

The Dude's bathrobe, jelly sandals and famous cardigan in The Big Lebowski (1998), mostly bought at thrift stores by the costume designer. What the most relaxed man in film gets right, and what he would wear to a wedding.

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Hall of shame · Columbo (1968–2003)
Columbo's raincoat: the most famous cheap coat on television

Peter Falk bought Columbo's raincoat himself, years before the role, and wore it until it fell apart. The story, why a rumpled coat worked for the character, and what a raincoat over a suit should actually be.

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Hall of shame · The wedding guest
The wedding guest hall of shame: a field guide

The rented tuxedo that ate its groomsman, the graduation suit at thirty-two, the sneaker rebel and five more: a tailor's affectionate field guide to the men at every wedding, and the one fix each of them needs.

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Off the screen

Bring the still.

Screenshots are welcome at the studio. Show Sam the suit you keep pausing on, and he will tell you which parts of it will work on you and which only work under studio lights. The first appointment costs nothing.

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