Trousers

Bring them in. Sam can read the rise, the seat and the leg off a pair you like and correct what you never liked about them, which is usually faster than describing it in words. That reading becomes your kept pattern.

Flat front reads modern and sits cleaner on a slimmer build. Pleats give room across the thigh and seat and sit better on a fuller one, and they are not the dated choice people assume: they are the older and more comfortable one. Your build decides it.

Higher than most ready-to-wear gives you. A trouser meant to be worn with a jacket should sit at or near your natural waist so no shirt shows when you move. Low-rise trousers under a jacket are why so many men look untucked by lunchtime.

A half break is the safe default: one soft fold on the shoe. No break reads sharper, a full break more traditional. Sam pins it on you in the shoes you actually intend to wear, which is why you should bring them.

Cuffs add weight and hang, and suit a pleated or heavier trouser. A plain hem is cleaner and slightly more formal, and is the right answer for black tie. Either is correct; it is a question of what the trouser is for.

Yes, and it is one of the most common repeat orders. Once your pattern is on file, a second pair in a different fabric is a phone call: two to three weeks, no fitting needed.

Yes, for the first appointment: Sam comes to your office for the measuring, a selection of cloth and the conversation. Book it online or by phone and he will confirm the time and the address. The fitting is at the studio in Vaughan; bring the shoes you will wear with them, because that is where the break is pinned.

Off-the-rack trousers compromise between a waist, a rise and an inseam that rarely belong to the same man. Cut to measure, the waist sits without cinching, the rise is comfortable all day, and the break at the shoe is your call.

Flat-front reads clean and modern; a single pleat adds room and an old-world drape. It depends on your build and how you'll wear them. I'll show you both on you before we finish.

Often, yes. Bring the jacket and I'll match fabric as closely as the mills allow, or cut odd trousers in grey to pair with it. Some matches hold up; some don't, and I'll tell you which.

Full, half or none: where the hem meets the shoe. It's a matter of taste and height; I finish the hem on you at the final fitting so it falls exactly the way you like.