The Details

Custom Suit Linings in Vaughan and Toronto

The outside of a suit belongs to the room. The inside belongs to you. It is the one part of a garment where taste costs nothing and nobody gets a vote but the man wearing it.

★ 4.8 · 160 Google reviews · First appointment free & no-obligation

What can the lining of a custom suit actually be?

Anything you like, because nobody else sees it. Sam lines in cupro (Bemberg), a regenerated-cellulose fabric that breathes through a long day where cheap polyester traps heat. Plain, patterned, or a colour that would be absurd on the outside. A monogram or a date can be stitched into the inside pocket.

Ask a man about his suit and he will tell you the colour of the fabric. Ask him why he likes it and, often enough, he will open the jacket. The lining is the part of tailoring that is purely his: it is not seen across a boardroom, it does not have to be appropriate, and it is the one decision in the whole commission where the only correct answer is the one you want.

It is also not only decoration. A lining is what a jacket slides over a shirt on, what stops the shoulders dragging when you put it on standing up, and what decides whether you are comfortable at four in the afternoon. Cheap polyester lining is the reason a great many perfectly good suits are unbearable in July.

Design yours on The Drawing Board  →

A jacket held open to show an oxblood cupro lining with the flat cap and bow tie embroidered at the inside pocket
Suit Linings
What goes into your lining

Your lining, made to your specification.

Measured in Vaughan · made to fit
A jacket held open to show an oxblood cupro lining with a flat cap and bow tie embroidered at the inside pocket
The house mark
Two squares of burgundy lining side by side on oak under identical light: the left matte and absorbing, the right slick with hard specular highlights
Cupro, then polyester
The cut end of a rolled bolt of deep oxblood cupro lining on a worn oak bench, the sheen graduating around the roll
The bolt
Three wooden spools of tailoring thread on unbleached cotton: oxblood, antique gold and ink brown, with a length of oxblood thread trailing
Your thread
№ I

Cupro, not polyester

Sam lines in cupro, sold as Bemberg: a regenerated cellulose that breathes and moves moisture the way a natural fibre does. Polyester is cheaper and it is why a suit can feel like a bin liner by the afternoon.

№ II

Plain, or not remotely plain

Oxblood and hunter green are the house defaults. Beyond that: paisley, a fine stripe, a colour that would be ridiculous on the outside and is exactly right on the inside.

№ III

Contrast where it shows a little

The under-collar, the sleeve lining and the inside of a cuff catch light when you move. A quiet shell with a sharp lining is the oldest trick in tailoring and still the best one.

№ IV

Your monogram, stitched in

Two or three letters at the inside pocket, in thread you choose. The detail nobody notices on a Tuesday and you notice on a Friday.

№ V

A date, or a dedication

A wedding date inside a groom's jacket. A name inside a suit bought for a son. Stitched where only the wearer will ever read it, which is rather the point of it.

№ VI

Half-lined for summer

A jacket lined only through the shoulders and back, left open below, is dramatically cooler in August and hangs softer. Worth asking about if your summers are spent outdoors.

Linings are chosen at the same visit as the shell fabric, held against it in the same light, because a lining that sings on its own can fight the suit it is inside. Explore the fabric library →

The terms, plainly

No guessing at the price of your lining.

  • To make Chosen at the same fitting as the fabric, so it adds nothing to the three to four weeks.
  • Payment Half when the fabric is chosen, half on delivery.
  • Alterations Part of the price, not a line item at the end.
  • Reorders Your measurements are kept, so the next one is a phone call.
Choose your lining Design it first →

You get one firm price before anything is cut, and the first consultation costs nothing.

Before you come in

More on suit linings

The questions people ask at the bench before they ever pick a cloth, answered properly. Ten minutes here and the first visit goes further.

Macro photograph of navy worsted wool with a soft pale chalk stripe, folded on a worn oak bench in daylight Guide · 3 min read Choosing your fabric How to choose suit fabric and colour without knowing the jargon: winter vs summer weights, what Super numbers mean, and where to start. Read the guide Three jacket chest-piece layers laid flat on a worn oak bench in raking daylight: natural horsehair canvas, soft cotton domette, and a square of glossy fused interlining lifting at one corner Guide · 4 min read Canvassed vs fused: what is inside a jacket What "fully canvassed" means, how canvas beats fused and half-canvas on drape and longevity, the bubbling problem, and a 5-second test to tell them apart. Read the guide Three close construction details on a worn oak workbench: a hand-sewn buttonhole in navy cloth, a working cuff with four horn buttons undone, and a seam where a stripe matches exactly across the join Guide · 5 min read How to tell a good suit Judge a suit in 30 seconds: pinch for canvas, read the seams and buttonholes, scrunch the fabric. Sam's bench guide to spotting real quality fast. Read the guide Watercolour sketch of bolts of navy, grey and brown suiting stacked on a table, with cloth swatches and tailor’s chalk Guide · 4 min read Fabric for a Toronto year How to choose suit fabric for Toronto's cold winters and humid summers: flannel, high-twist, fresco and linen, plus the right weights by season. Read the guide A finished navy three-piece suit on a tailor’s dress form The garment Custom Suits in Toronto & Vaughan A custom-tailored suit is the whole craft in one garment: a pattern drafted to your body, fabric chosen for how you live, and a fit off-the-rack can never reach. Sam measures and fits each one personally, and for the first appointment he comes to your office. See the custom & tailored suits Watercolour sketch of a navy suit jacket on a hanger laid across a worn workbench, with a bolt of pinstripe cloth and a striped tie The service Business Suits in Vaughan & the GTA Suits built for the working week: cloth that survives a commute and a long day, cut for how you actually sit at a desk. See business suits Sketch of five tailored jackets hanging on one wooden garment rail The service The Custom Wardrobe Suits, shirts, trousers and coats that work together, built one piece at a time from a pattern cut for you. See the wardrobe
In their own words

What people actually said.

Unedited · Google reviews
“

Always bought my suits off the rack and always struggled with getting a quality suit that fit. A friend recommended I try Sam and I don't think I'll ever switch back. Sam has an extremely wide selection of fabrics and the detail he puts in every suit is truly remarkable. From the fit to choosing my fabric and design, Sam will be my go-to.

Rafi Habs · ★ Google
“

My first custom suit by Sam did not disappoint. He's a master of his craft and everything was fully customized with a perfect fit. I would definitely recommend him for any occasion.

Parth Thakkar · ★ Google
“

Sam is an amazing tailor and helped me pick out a wicked suit. He's very friendly and will help you step by step.

Alexander Ferrier · ★ Google
Common questions

Good to know.

Straight answers
What is the lining actually for?

Three jobs. It lets the jacket slide on over a shirt instead of dragging, it hides the construction and the seam allowances, and it decides how warm the garment is. A jacket with no lining at all is cooler but shows everything the tailor did inside it.

What is cupro, and why not polyester?

Cupro, usually sold as Bemberg, is regenerated cellulose: a plant-derived fibre that breathes and carries moisture away the way cotton does. Polyester is cheaper and does neither, which is exactly why so many suits become unbearable in a warm room.

Can I have a loud lining in a conservative suit?

That is the classic combination and Sam will encourage it. A navy or charcoal shell reads correctly in any room; what is inside it is nobody's business. It is the safest place in the whole garment to have some fun.

Can you put a monogram or a date inside?

Yes, at the inside pocket, in a thread colour you pick. Two or three letters is usual. Wedding dates go inside grooms' jackets often enough that Sam suggests it before the groom thinks to ask.

What is half-lining, and should I have it?

The jacket is lined through the shoulders and upper back and left open below, so heat escapes. It is noticeably cooler in a Toronto August and the jacket hangs softer. The trade is that the inside is more exposed, so the work has to be tidy.

Does a special lining cost more or take longer?

It is chosen at the same fitting as the shell fabric, so it adds nothing to the three to four weeks on the bench. The fabric itself varies like any other, and you get one firm price for the whole garment before anything is cut.

Can you reline a jacket I already own?

Often, yes, and it is one of the more satisfying rescues: a good jacket whose lining has shredded under the arms is worth saving. Bring it in and you will be told honestly whether the shell justifies the work.

Will the lining wear out before the suit?

Usually, yes, and that is normal rather than a fault: the lining takes the friction so the fabric does not. A relining part-way through a good suit's life is expected, and far cheaper than replacing the suit.

Begin

Have suit linings made for you.

The first appointment costs nothing, and it happens at the Vaughan studio: one client in the room, and the whole hour is yours.

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