The Wick look, made: the cut without the Kevlar
Updated September 2026 · Sam’s Menswear editorial team
The last part of the series is the useful one. After the suit on screen, what real bullet-resistant clothing is and the law in Canada, here is how to have the look made for a life that involves fewer catacombs.
First, plainly: Sam does not make ballistic or protective garments. What he makes is the cut, which is the part of the John Wick suit that actually looks good on a real man.
The order
| The Wick cut | |
|---|---|
| Cloth | Black or deep charcoal worsted, year-round weight, with a slight texture (a birdseye, a sharkskin or a fine twill) rather than a flat, shiny black |
| Jacket | Single-breasted, two buttons, narrow notch lapels, trim through the body |
| Armholes | High and close, so you can raise and reach without the jacket lifting with you |
| Vents | Double, so the back stays flat when you move and sit |
| Trousers | Trim, flat front, a clean hem with little or no break |
| Shirt | Black or dark grey for the full look; white for every day |
| Tie | Solid black silk, a slim knot |
Why high armholes matter
This is the tailoring secret the films get right. It sounds backwards: a smaller, higher armhole gives you more movement, not less. When the armhole sits close under the arm, the sleeve moves with the arm and the body of the jacket stays put. A low, roomy armhole looks comfortable on the hanger, but lift your arm and the whole jacket rides up with it. If you want a suit you can actually move in, ask for the armhole to be cut high.
The colour question
An all-black suit with a black shirt and a black tie is a strong look, and it belongs to the evening, to a certain kind of event and to men who can carry it. In daylight, at the office or at a wedding, it can read as a costume.
Three ways to wear the idea in real life:
- Evening, full Wick: black suit, black or charcoal shirt, black tie.
- Everyday Wick: the same suit with a white shirt and a black tie. Sharp, and nobody will ask where your dog is.
- Office Wick: the cut in deep charcoal rather than black, with a white or pale grey shirt. All of the line, none of the menace.
Getting it made
Sam measures and fits every client personally at the Vaughan studio, just north of Steeles, and a suit takes three to four weeks. Tell him at the first appointment that you want to be able to move in it, and the armholes, the back and the trouser will be cut for it.
Sketch the full evening version first, black cloth, charcoal shirt, black tie: draw the Wick suit. Then try it in charcoal birdseye with a white shirt and see which one you would actually wear: the office version. Book a time when you are ready.
Where the details come from: Black Lapel on the John Wick suit and From Tailors With Love.