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About Custom Suits
Why Custom Tailoring?
There are few things that feel better on a person than a well-tailored suit. For over 200 years, the suit has been a staple of formality, status, and style. There is something striking about a man in finely tailored jacket and trousers that demands respect from others.
Sam calls his suits “investment grade” – empowering, commanding, and distinct. Well-fit clothes, made from of top-quality fabric, and impeccably tailored so that the suit an extension of your personality. Off-the-rack suits, shirts, and trousers simply do not stack up. In fact, over 90% of people do not fit well in mass-produced suits. There is an endless list of compromises to wear “off the rack” suits and the main concession on the fit. A well-dressed man never settles for a shoddy fit.
The Experience and what to expect
Lapels: The Defining Detail of Your Suit
The lapels on a suit jacket are more than just fabric folds; they are a key style element that can significantly influence your suit’s overall look and formality. At Sam’s Menswear, we meticulously craft lapels that not only meet your aesthetic preference but also accentuate the suit’s design and your body’s natural lines.
Notch Lapels: Known for their versatility, notch lapels are the classic choice for a range of suits from business to casual. Defined by a distinct ‘notch’ where the collar meets the lapel, these lapels are highly adaptable and lend themselves well to a multitude of occasions.
Peak Lapels: Wider and more pointed than their notch counterparts, peak lapels are a more formal and bold option. Often seen on double-breasted suits, peak lapels add a dash of old-world charm and sartorial flair to your ensemble, making them an excellent choice for power suits and special occasions.
Shawl Lapels: Reserved mostly for tuxedos and formal evening wear, shawl lapels are characterized by a smooth, uninterrupted curve from collar to button. They exude sophistication and elegance, making your suit a perfect companion for black-tie events.
Slim vs. Wide Lapels: The width of your lapel can significantly impact your suit’s overall look. Slim lapels lend a modern, streamlined appearance, while wider lapels offer a more traditional, powerful aesthetic. The lapel width should generally match the tie width and the wearer’s body proportions.
Fabric: The Foundation of Your Suit’s Look and Feel
The choice of fabric significantly impacts how your suit looks, feels, and performs over time. At Sam’s Menswear, we offer a range of high-quality fabrics:
Wool: Wool is the most popular suit fabric, valued for its durability, breathability, and ability to drape nicely over the body. From worsted wool to tweed, there are various types of wool fabrics to suit different seasons and occasions.
Cotton: Lighter than wool, cotton suits are comfortable and ideal for warmer temperatures. They offer a more casual look and are easier to maintain than wool suits.
Linen: Known for its lightweight and breathable nature, linen is the go-to fabric for summer suits. It has a distinct texture that adds character but tends to wrinkle easily.
Silk: Silk suits are synonymous with luxury and sophistication. They have a natural sheen, are incredibly comfortable, and drape well. However, silk suits are less durable and more expensive.
Synthetic: Synthetic fabrics like polyester are durable, wrinkle-resistant, and more affordable. However, they are less breathable and may not provide the same comfort and luxury feel as natural fabrics.
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Customization options for jackets include
Stitching: The Invisible Art That Holds Your Suit Together
Stitching is the unsung hero of any suit, quietly holding everything together while also adding subtle elements of style and craftsmanship. At Sam’s Menswear, our tailors are masters of this invisible art, ensuring every stitch contributes to your suit’s durability, comfort, and overall aesthetics.
Seams: The quality of seam construction is paramount to the durability and comfort of your suit. Our tailors use various types of seam techniques, such as plain, lapped, or bound seams, depending on the fabric and suit style. Each seam is sewn with precision, ensuring your suit withstands the test of time and wear.
Buttonholes: Often overlooked, finely stitched buttonholes can significantly enhance the overall detail of your suit. Our tailors craft clean, reinforced buttonholes that are not only functional but also add a touch of elegance to your suit.
Pick Stitching: This is a type of hand-sewn detail that runs along the edges of the lapel and pockets. While it’s not always visible from a distance, up close, pick stitching is a clear sign of a high-quality, bespoke suit.
Canvas Stitching: The canvas is a layer of horsehair or similar material between the suit fabric and the lining that gives the jacket its shape. In our custom suits, the canvas is hand-stitched, allowing it to move with you for a more comfortable fit and longer-lasting shape.
Lining Stitching: The stitching on the lining is another indicator of a quality suit. We ensure that the lining is securely stitched, allowing it to endure regular wear while also adding to the suit’s comfort and breathability.
Buttons: Small Details That Make a Big Impact
Buttons may seem like a minor detail on a suit, but they play a significant role in its overall style and functionality. At Sam’s Menswear, we understand the importance of these tiny components and offer an array of high-quality options to complement your custom suit:
Horn Buttons: These buttons, crafted from the horn of animals like buffalo, provide a traditional, luxurious touch to your suit. Each one is unique, showcasing natural color variations that add character and depth to your ensemble.
Mother-of-Pearl Buttons: Mother-of-pearl buttons lend an understated elegance to your suit. Their subtle iridescence provides a sophisticated touch that sets your suit apart.
Corozo Buttons: Made from the nut of the Tagua palm, Corozo buttons are a sustainable option that doesn’t compromise on style. They are highly durable and feature beautiful natural grain patterns.
Plastic Buttons: Plastic buttons offer versatility in color and shape, making them a popular choice. They are durable and easy to care for, making them ideal for daily wear.
Metal Buttons: Reserved for more casual suits or blazers, metal buttons can add a unique, eye-catching element to your ensemble. From classic brass to modern brushed steel, the options are vast.
Lining: The Hidden Luxury Inside Your Suit
The lining of your suit, while often unseen, plays a crucial role in both the garment’s durability and your comfort. At Sam’s Menswear, we understand that a great lining can elevate your suit-wearing experience, offering an additional layer of luxury and personalization.
Full Lining: A fully lined suit jacket provides maximum durability and a clean, well-structured shape. It also allows the jacket to glide smoothly over your shirt, making it easier to put on and take off.
Half Lining: Half-lined jackets are perfect for warmer climates or seasons. By lining only the upper back, front, and shoulder areas of the jacket, we offer you a lighter, more breathable garment without compromising on structure.
Unlined: An unlined or skeleton-lined jacket represents the pinnacle of tailoring craftsmanship. While it is the most breathable option, it requires meticulous workmanship as the inner seams and construction are exposed.
Lining Materials: From breathable Bemberg to luxurious silk, we offer a range of lining materials to suit your comfort and style preferences. Each material is carefully selected for its quality, durability, and feel.
Customization: The suit lining is an ideal canvas to express your personality. Choose from a variety of colors, patterns, and even personalized monograms to make your suit uniquely yours.
Piped Seams: To give your lining a clean, refined look, our tailors neatly pipe the seams. This not only enhances the jacket’s durability but also adds an extra touch of elegance.