Custom Suits

Why Custom Tailoring?

Sam calls his suits “investment grade”—empowering, commanding, and distinct. Well-fit clothes made out of top-quality fabric impeccably tailored as an extension of your personality. Ready-to-wear, off-the-rack suits, shirts, and trousers simply do not stack up.

Many customers come into Sam’s Menswear for a special occasion suit or tuxedo and stay for a complete wardrobe once they see what Sam can do. Invariably, their friends and kin call in for their suits. Sam helps you develop your own unique style with clothing that fits like it was specially made for you—because it was!

The quintessence of men’s fashion.

There are few things that feel better than a well-tailored suit. For over 200 years, the suit has been a staple of formality, status, and style. There is just something striking about a man in finely tailored jacket and trousers that brings out respect.

90% of us do not fit in mass produced suits. It is an endless list of compromises to wear “off the rack” suits and the main concession is wearing sloppy suits. The well-dressed man never settles for a shoddy fit.

Sam knows that a tailored suit never goes out of style. It evokes self-confidence and gives the wearer prominence. It is a rite of passage into manhood firmly fixed in the culture of men’s clothing.

The Process – The Fabric. The Style. The Fit.                                 

Sam understands that the process of asking questions and listening to you is what truly makes a custom suit, not the price. Through listening comes a clear understanding of your needs.

Sam discusses the reasons for commissioning the suit:

  • Weddings
  • Business
  • Improving job prospects
  • Special occasions and life events

This information is as important as the fabric from which it is created because a power suit is quite different from a suit for a wedding.

Suit Construction

Sam’s knowledge of suits is reaped from three generations of suit and shirt making expertise. This expertise has created suits that do not bubble. Ever. There is no gluing in Sam’s suits. Instead, a layer of horse hair canvas of specific thickness and stiffness is cut in specific grain lines and hand sewn. A discerning few may choose a full canvas construction, in most cases a half canvas jacket is used. On principle, Sam does not make fused jackets.

If you can imagine it, Sam can do it. Sam is skilled in all styles of suits and can blend preferences together to make something truly worth cherishing.

Occasionally, clients ask Sam to craft something more out of the ordinary like a suit with a Mao collar. That certainly raises the bar, but the challenge is more worth it when a Sam receives the “Wow!” from the customer for making a perfect suit for a “hard to fit” customer.

“I found the fabric of my dreams right away. Sam still took the time to bring out at least a dozen more similar fabrics until I was sure that the fabric I chose was the best among equals.” –Levi Kane, Edmonton

Styling Options

Next comes a discussion on the styling options that would be best for the fabric and the occasion.

This is the time when blending of the intangibles and the tangibles happens.

This is where the soft-spoken groom who has just chosen a slightly flamboyant shade of blue will discuss the attributes of a wide inverted lapel as opposed to a more sophisticated shawl collar or an understated narrow notch lapel.

In fact, Sam prides himself on making any style option you have in mind. Sam shows you exactly how you can push the envelope and stops short of the line that separates sophistication from the top.

Measurements for Suit Success

Lastly, Sam will bring you “under the tape.” 

A typical measurement includes a shoulder slope measurement with a Perkins Device. A surprisingly large percentage of people have uneven shoulders, but it’s nothing to worry about. Shoulder slope requires your tailor to understand and quantitate unevenness so that the fabric can be cut accordingly. 

Sam observes your stance and the foot on which you tend to rest your weight more often. These are the physical traits that need to be incorporated into the paper patterns.

For an even better understanding of fit, Sam will have you try on a few different suits to assess armhole fit. Everyone has a different concept of what constitutes a “good fit,” so Sam works patiently with you to get deeper insight into how you wear the suit and your own personal comfort level.

That’s the raw material from which Sam begins his craft.

But there is more. What goes inside of a suit must be the best. Here are some of the suit options available:

  • Interlining: German horsehair interlining “Kufner®” on the chest piece.
  • Shoulder Pads: “Helsa®” from Germany.
  • Sewing Threads: “King®,” “Coats®,” and “Gütermann®”
  • Over 3000 fabric options in various price points, including top brands from Italy and England.
    • Loro Piana®
    • Lanifico Cerutti®
    • Dormeuil®
    • Vitale Barberis Canonico®
    • Pal Zileri®
    • John Forrester ®
    • Many choices from Huddersfield, UK and Biella, Italy.

Linings are what add a whole bunch of oomph to a suit!! At the top end are silk linings from Como, Italy that do not elongate when dry cleaned. Linings also come in many beautiful prints in striking colors and designs, bembergs in solid colors and paisleys that will steal your heart.