This summer go Napolitano
This seaside city certainly punches over its weight when it comes to men’s dressing.
For starters, this is the birthplace of the Neapolitan jacket – not to mention the pizza.
What makes this jacket so special?
Italy and also the UK have many age-old tailoring houses that still have their clients come in their private jets to get measured and fitted at the ateliers that their families have been using for generations.
For a start, remember the climate in Naples
is hot and humid. Our regular suit
jacket with its lining could last on you for half an hour before it finds
itself hanging over a chair. Not only that summers can extend up to October and
that’s a good reason to stay cool.
‘Sprezzatura’ or the concealment of art is an Italian convention. An Englishman may take an hour to dress himself up so that the result is obvious. The Italian, on the other hand, will spend the same time to achieve a careless look so that the same good looks appear to be without any apparent effort.
The Neapolitan jacket has a large helping of Sprezzatura.
The Neapolitan jacket is not fully lined. That means there is no lining on the inside. Maybe, just a little lining at the top near the shoulders to help it slide over the shirt. The edges of the fabrics are piped in colors of your fancy.
The shoulders are unstructured or soft shoulders. The stiff canvas that goes inside is eliminated and a soft look is achieved. The shoulder pads are taken off. Note the roll of the sleeve on a traditional jacket. The sleeve on a Neapolitan jacket does not have this roll. It sits in the armhole just like a shirt sleeve. However note the tiny pleats at the top of the sleeve, there are there on purpose and give some space to the wearer.
Note the topstitching on the outside of the armhole.
Patch pockets and not jetted pockets are the most visible. They are rounded at the hem and have the shape of a wine glass. The hand sewing on the edges is evidence of craftsmanship and is usually a twin seam or a single seam about a quarter of an inch away from the edge.
The Neapolitan jacket usually has 3 buttons, but when worn the top button and buttonhole roll under the lapel. This method is now also copied by some Parisian tailors and Saville row houses.
Difference #5, #6 & #7
The colors are really bold, the lapels are wider and gorge at the neck is higher so the look changes subtly. That’s the blue we look for in a Neapolitan jacket.
The waist is tightened a bit giving it a
more masculine shape. Thus, emphasizing the chest and the narrowness of the
waist giving it a more masculine look.
The lapels are sometimes double-stitched by hand affirming the artisan quality of workmanship.
So, this is the time to make a choice, will
it be linen or will it be lightweight wool? How about seersucker?
The choice is yours. Let me guide you to
the perfect summer suit.